ANNOUNCER: And now, "Signature Dish" a WETA original series.

SETH: Today on "Signature Dish," we're enjoying the many flavors of India.

After pairing dinner with drinks ...

So the steam inside the banana leaf is going to trap all these great flavors?

SURESH: Yes, absolutely.

SETH: We'll watch the cuisine be elevated to new heights... All right, 37 ingredients to reach Nirvana.

And enjoy some heady homestyle cooking.

NIDHI: This is the most important ingredient in rum chicken and I can add everything.

SETH: Why stop there?

Oh, that is a flavor explosion.

I'm Seth Tillman, WETA producer and DC native, and I love good food.

That's why I'm traveling to restaurants across the DMV, at each stop, looking for the one thing you just gotta try... that signature dish.

SETH: We're first heading to the easternmost edge of DC's H Street Corridor to visit Daru.

This critically acclaimed restaurant is run by bar manager Dante Datta and Nepalese-born chef Suresh Sundas, who first met while working at the groundbreaking Indian restaurant, Rasika.

DANTE: Rasika really incorporates a lot of how diverse India's cuisine really is and it really brought that to the attention of DC diners.

And so for us, that was very inspiring.

Chef Suresh and I met there.

He was a tandoor chef and I worked at the bar.

SURESH: When I found Rasika, I think I learned from there.

And at the same time, I was craving, hungry to do my own stuff.

I was really looking for someone to have a partner and that's what I found in Dante.

DANTE: He would just have me taste things and I was like, "This is the greatest thing I've ever tasted."

DANTE: His energy and focus and creativity was endless.

We describe the restaurant as Indian-ish.

Chef is amazing at using traditional techniques and flavor, but then we are also incorporating seasonal things and local items and just whatever really is inspiring, and I think that also goes with the cocktails as well.

The word Daru, it is a type of spirit that's made in India that's made at home.

It's essentially moonshine or hooch.

When we first were getting ready to open, we wanted it to be more of a cocktail bar with small plates, but we've obviously evolved from that point into more of a restaurant.

Just tasting more of Suresh's food, I mean, we just really wanted it to shine.

SETH: Suresh.

SURESH: Hey, Seth.

How are you?

SETH: I'm doing great, uh, really excited to be here.

So what are you making today?

SURESH: Oh, I'm making our signature dish, Striped Bass Paturi.

SETH: And what exactly is Paturi?

SETH: So the steam inside the banana leaf is going to trap all these great flavors.

SURESH: Yep.

SETH: And how are these ingredients going to go in the dish?

SURESH: Right now, I'm going to make the first marination so there's going to be lots of acidic flavor.

SETH: Staple ingredient.

SURESH: Yeah.

SETH: All right, the turmeric.

Now this is going to give you some color, but not as much flavor, right?

SURESH: Yeah, we believe this is an antiseptic.

In India and Nepal, if we cut our finger or something, we use as a medicine.

SETH: A little turmeric will do the trick.

SURESH: Yeah, yeah.

A little turmeric, yeah.

And salt is always important though.

SETH: Of course.

SURESH: Yeah.

Usually in our Indian cooking, we always do two marinations.

SETH: And why two marinades chef?

SURESH: One is for acidic, salt and lemon kind of thing, and the second marination will be for more flavor.

So this has to sit for the 10 minutes.

All right, Seth... SETH: Oh, great.

SETH: And that's going to help the marinade stick to the outer part of the fish?

SURESH: Yes.

SETH: Lime zest.

All right.

SURESH: Yes.

SETH: Is this also a non-traditional Paturi ingredient?

SURESH: Yeah, this is non-traditional.

The second marination, everything in there, I'm going to mix them very well.

And it looks beautiful though.

SETH: It looks beautiful.

And actually, even that lime zest, there's a nice, bright aroma coming out of that bowl.

And so why do you choose to use striped bass in the dish?

SETH: And then besides helping it steam, is the banana leaf going to also add its own flavor as well?

SURESH: Yeah, absolutely.

SETH: Making just a delicious little package of flavor here.

SURESH: Yeah... ♪ ♪ SETH: All right, that sounds great.

I cannot wait to try that, chef.

Dante.

DANTE: Hey, Seth.

How are you?

SETH: Doing great, man.

Really, really excited about the Paturi, but looking forward to, what is this, Mixology 101?

DANTE: Yes.

Now that we got you behind the stick, we're going to teach you how to make a cocktail.

SETH: All right, but I'm ready to learn from a master.

What are you making today?

DANTE: Today, we're going to be making the Bandit Queen.

Bandit Queen is our take on a Manhattan.

We're going to start with Two Indies Rum.

It comes from Bangalore.

It's been infused with garam masala.

It's going to be an ounce and a quarter.

SETH: So India has a big spirits community?

DANTE: It is a growing spirits community.

This distillery itself actually was a British Navy rum distillery.

When the British left India, a family took over the distillery and started making their own rum.

SETH: An ounce and a quarter, you said?

DANTE: Yes, sir.

SETH: All right.

Close enough.

DANTE: Okay, this is our Bonal.

This is the Gentian Aperitif.

So this will bring a little bitterness and herbaceousness to the drink, and we'll just do an ounce.

SETH: My jigger-holding techniques need a little work.

DANTE: You're doing great.

This is Szechuan peppercorn Amaro from Baltimore Spirits Company.

So this will be three-quarters of an ounce.

And one of the reasons why we love Szechuan peppercorn Amaro is because Chef is using it so much in his cooking.

So this is our tamarind syrup.

It is tamarind puree that's steeped in water like tea, and then we add a little bit of sugar to it.

SETH: And then this is going to help counter some of the bitterness from the Amaro?

DANTE: Absolutely.

SETH: How much are we talking here, Chef?

DANTE: Quarter-ounce, sir.

SETH: Quarter ounce.

I might've put a little too much in there.

DANTE: Beautiful.

Then we have mole bitters, gives it a nice spicy, chocolatey note to it.

SETH: And bitters is not really something that you taste a lot, right?

DANTE: Bitters, you can consider them like salt or pepper in cocktails so they are used to sort of bring up a lot of the other flavors.

All right, Seth, so here are the glasses we're going to use.

These are chilled cocktail glasses.

One of the things that's very traditional in a Manhattan are cherries.

I'm just adding some ice to this.

The most important part is the art of the stir, which you are about to learn.

So you take your bar spoon, you are letting the bar spoon go around the edge of the glass, and move all the ice in one unit.

SETH: And it feels really good when you get... DANTE: It feels good, right?

SETH: Into that rhythm, yeah.

DANTE: You're doing great.

We'll see you at happy hour.

After stirring, we just strain it right into our strainer.

You want to make sure no ice falls in.

So we finish it off with a little lemon oil.

It's like a kiss goodbye at the train station.

SETH: All right, I cannot wait to try this.

Thanks for the tutorial.

Cheers.

DANTE: Cheers.

Thank you, Seth.

SETH: Oh, nice and balanced and refreshing.

That garam masala really does give it that nice little layer of smokiness as well.

I cannot wait to see how the spices in this drink pair with the ones that are already in the Paturi.

DANTE: Absolutely.

I think chef's just about ready with the Paturi so let's go eat.

SETH: Let's check it out.

While I tried my hand at bartending, Chef Suresh finished preparing the Paturi.

After cooking the wrapped fish on the flat top, he prepared the two sides: kale khichdi and tomato chutney.

After plating, he topped the fish with microgreens, herbs, and edible flowers.

All right, gentlemen.

I am excited to try this.

That is just a beautiful, beautiful, yellow color.

SURESH: I hope you are tasting like the sourness of lime juice, lime zest, like right amount of spice, buttery and meaty texture of fish.

SETH: Just the right amount of everything.

That is really something special.

There is a little bit of a kick, I guess, between the chili powder and pepper flakes.

SURESH: Absolutely, yeah.

SETH: But nothing overwhelming and that lime zest comes through so loud and clear.

And should I be dipping it in anything here?

SURESH: Yeah, you can dip the fish with tomato chutney.

SETH: A little extra spice, too, from that chutney.

DANTE: You really got to try the khichdi.

I mean, for us, it's real like Nepalese and Indian comfort food.

Suresh's spin on it is taking the kale leaves and spinning it with the rest of the khichdi and it is just to die for.

SETH: I just like how you have this classic Bengal dish, a little bit of Nepalese flavor here, some Szechuan peppercorn in the cocktail.

It seems like you guys are just trying to have a little bit of fun with this food.

DANTE: Absolutely.

And I just love the way Suresh is so passionate about blending different flavors and ingredients that you may not think of together.

The aromatics that come out of the makrut lime leaves, the earthiness that comes from the kale khichdi, and then the Szechuan peppercorn, of course, sort of is the backbone of the whole dish itself and the drink.

SETH: When your Bengali relatives are here, do they approve of this take on the Paturi?

DANTE: Oh, yeah.

We have to order more fish for them.

SURESH: Yeah, they die for it.

SETH: But what did you guys see as the opening you know to be able to create a place like this?

DANTE: When we met, we were both learning and we still are, but we wanted to create a space that was a little bit of a neighborhood-friendly space.

We wanted to keep the attention to quality, the attention to flavor, attention to service, and the drinks.

SETH: Well, you guys have clearly carved out your own little corner, literally, here off H Street and bringing just both of your incredible strengths.

Thank you guys so much.

SURESH: Thank you.

Thank you so much, Seth.

DANTE: Thanks, Seth.

Thanks for coming in.

SURESH: Yeah.

SETH: My next stop is Chinatown to visit Karizma Modern Indian.

The restaurant first opened as Karma in 2017, but is now split into two dining rooms sharing the same roof.

Karma now offers a prix fixe tasting menu, while Karizma serves up an a la carte dining experience.

SACHIN: So originally grew up in India.

I went to school in Australia when I was 19, but I happened to work in the restaurant business there and that really got the bug in me.

I felt like Indian cuisine was ready to be taken to the next level.

SETH: Sachin opened the restaurant with Chef Ajay Kumar.

AJAY: We came up with the idea to present the Indian cuisine in a modern way with modern techniques.

And whenever I design some dish, I feel like I am starting with a blank canvas and using different imagination about colors.

SACHIN: Indian food was kind of held in that one specific format.

People felt like, "It's too spicy," "It'll be too heavy," "It's more for takeout."

We wanted to offer a full dining experience so we have a cocktail bar, we have a wine program.

One of the misconceptions out there, India would be homogeneous.

In India, there are several influences on the coastal cuisine that are very European.

In the north side, which has a lot of the Asian influences.

Whereas on the west side, all of the influences from the Mughal empire and the spice route.

AJAY: Which results in a lot of flavors and ingredients that inspire us, elevating the Indian cuisine to the same level of Italian or French cuisine or Spanish cuisine.

SACHIN: Indian food to be considered as one of the primary choices, if not the choice for all occasions.

SETH: Ajay, good to meet you.

AJAY: Same here.

SETH: I am excited because I knew there were going to be some colorful dishes, but I don't think anything prepared me for this.

What are you making today?

AJAY: We are making today Nirvana 37.. SETH: Nirvana 37.

Are we talking about 37 ingredients?

AJAY: Yeah.

SETH: All right, 37 ingredients to reach... to reach Nirvana.

Well, I understand that you're also an artist.

This is your palette right here?

AJAY: Right.

SETH: So Chef, how do you begin to put this dish together?

SETH: So we got mangoes at least three ways so far.

AJAY: Yeah.... SETH: I can already tell there's going to be a lot of crunch on this dish.

Would you like the salad as well, Chef?

AJAY: Yeah... SETH: So I'll be getting my veggies in this dish.

AJAY: Yeah... SETH: So we're kind of layering here as we go.

SETH: There you go.

And what kind of noodles are these, Chef?

SETH: After adding the noodles, Chef Ajay alternates more layers of greens and noodles and then adds the finishing touches.

SETH: There is plenty of green on this dish.

SETH: Are these going to be really spicy chilies?

SETH: Sweet spicy, okay.

AJAY: And the real magic will happen when we'll mix it in front of the customer on the table.

SETH: I got to tell you, Chef, I've seen a lot of dishes on the show and none of them look anything like this.

I can't wait to try it.

AJAY: You are going to love it.

SETH: All right, Ajay, Sachin, I've never done this on the show before, but this is a classic "phone eats first" kind of situation here.

SACHIN: Absolutely.

SETH: Got to get this photo.

Bloop.

All right, that is too beautiful.

Do we just reach in and start eating?

SACHIN: Let me assemble it for you.

SETH: Assemble.

SACHIN: We actually bring the Nirvana 37 on the table.

It's got 37 ingredients.

They have to be mixed in together.

SETH: Such a shame to see that tower taken apart, but I understand.

SACHIN: And the idea here is that every bite is going to give you a different taste and a different flavor, so that's why mixing is as important as assembling it.

SETH: As you're stirring it, I can hear the crunchiness.

SACHIN: And I think you'll enjoy this.

SETH: Oh, I have no doubt.

SACHIN: So one dish, kind of a culinary journey through the Indian subcontinent.

SETH: Here we go.

AJAY: Hope you like the sourness and sweet and fluffiness of the noodles.

SETH: That is a flavor explosion.

There's a little kind of sharp, peppery bite to it as well.

SACHIN: And that comes from the mustard oil.

SETH: It's amazing to think that you could have one dish that's kind of on a covert operation to share all the flavors of India together.

SACHIN: Somehow, this kind of evolved into a dish on its own, which wasn't planned or intended, and just many different ideas that were flowing through the brain kind of conceptualized this.

And then very hard to pick a name because you can't call it one or the other and there is no reference point for the dish.

So we thought, it kind of gives you the Nirvana feeling with the dish, so why not call it Nirvana?

SETH: That's absolutely true about there being no reference because it looks a little bit like a salad, it's got all the greens, but it's not.

Really great, savory flavor to it.

AJAY: And it is vegan and gluten-free also.

SETH: Vegan and gluten-free.

I mean, that's going to draw some people in.

I know that.

SACHIN: It already is.

AJAY: In every bite, you will feel a different taste.

SETH: That's absolutely true because the first bite, I think I got a lot of fennel.

It was really kind of sharp and peppery.

But in that last bite, I got some of that mango chutney so there's a little bit of sweetness, but still getting all those good, savory spices.

In this day and age at a restaurant, it is important to make a dish that's that visually appealing too because that's what brings a lot of people in, right?

SACHIN: Also to connect with the guests while serving this.

It's not just something that we are just bringing on the table and just plopping it.

SETH: And Ajay, for you, as someone you know who's an artist who created this really visually-striking dish, what's it been like for you to watch the customer's reactions when they get it?

AJAY: I'm always very excited when I'm making this in the kitchen and more excited when I'm presenting this to the customer and they're so happy to see this dish and they are taking pictures.

And they always promise me, too, that they will come again and for this dish.

SETH: Yeah.

I mean, food should taste good, but it should be fun too.

I'll be thinking about this one for a while.

Thank you both.

SETH: We're bringing things to a close in DC's NoMa.

While the neighborhood continues to evolve and grow at a breakneck pace, one constant for more than a decade has been Indigo.

The restaurant pairs a laid-back vibe with warm, homestyle cooking.

NIDHI: Me and my husband are Punjabis.

We are from the same town.

This is how we met.

This is how our love story started.

DINESH: People in India, every festival, there are parties.

Everything ends up with lots and lots of food.

NIDHI: Back in India, my mom and dad both used to cook meals for us.

Here, I realized there is no help so I have to do whatever for my family.

Then I started calling my mom and my mom-in-law how to cook food.

It's basic cooking.

I've never been to any culinary school.

DINESH: She's been very passionate about her cooking and she was a chef inside, which I didn't know.

So she would tell me to open a restaurant for her, but I always kept it on the back end.

But one day, my daughter calls me.

She said, "Dad, do you know what mom is doing?

She's selling her dishes at one of the Indian stores."

I said, "What is going on?"

This is how passionate she was.

Then she set up a table outside an Indian grocery store.

That is how the whole thought erupted and then we started doing this.

NIDHI: And the response we got from the markets were amazing.

Being a housewife, it gave me confidence to open a restaurant.

And from the very first day, we got a beautiful response so it's been 11 years.

DINESH: I love her cooking.

I tell everybody that the simplest and the purest and the most divine dishes.

Her creativity is amazing.

And in these 11 years, Indigo has lived its own American dream and this dream was truly attainable because of Nidhi's dedication and love for her cooking.

SETH: Dinesh.

DINESH: Hey, how are you doing?

SETH: Doing great.

Nice to meet you.

Nidhi.

NIDHI: Welcome to Indigo.

SETH: Well, thank you so much.

Loving the vibe as I walked up.

And looking up at this menu board, it looks like there are absolutely no shortage of options to choose from.

What are you making today?

NIDHI: I'm making Rum Chicken Keema today.

DINESH: This is a curry she created using a rum that I grew up drinking.

You know, it is amazing.

You should definitely try it.

SETH: All right.

Well, curry, rum.

Definitely sounds good to me.

NIDHI: Well, welcome to my kitchen.

I'll show you the recipe.

DINESH: And while you are back there, I'll whip up some cocktails.

SETH: Sounds good to me.

DINESH: All right?

SETH: Thanks, Dinesh.

NIDHI: So welcome to my kitchen.

And here, we are going to make rum chicken.

SETH: All right.

Well, I actually love rum, but this is coming from India?

NIDHI: We are sourcing this rum from India.

SETH: I've only had Caribbean rums before.

Really curious what the Indian rum tastes like.

NIDHI: Okay, let's taste it.

And this is everyone's favorite.

SETH: And this is a dish that you came up with all on your own?

NIDHI: Yes, I did.

And my husband, he loves rum, so I came up with the idea to make a rum chicken, and, which is so popular now.

SETH: Let's give it a shot.

Cheers, Chef.

NIDHI: Cheers.

Cheers.

SETH: Ooh.

NIDHI: It is strong.

It is nutty.

Yes.

SETH: It's a nice caramelized flavor as well.

NIDHI: So I'm going to pour some rum.

SETH: It looks like we're being pretty generous with the rum there.

NIDHI: We are.

If you want a rum flavor, yes.

This a fresh ginger garlic paste and ginger garlic is always the base of the Indian cooking.

SETH: And a keema curry, is that always using ground chicken?

NIDHI: Yes, it's always a minced chicken.

SETH: Even just two ingredients in that marinade, it's so aromatic.

How long does this have to marinate for?

NIDHI: So I prefer to marinate it overnight.

It adds the more flavor to it.

But I have already marinated chicken over here.

SETH: Oh, wow.

NIDHI: There's a lot more flavor to add to it and I'm going to show you how it goes.

SETH: Rum in hand, here I come.

And Chef, you were not kidding about a lot more ingredients here.

How do you get started on this dish?

NIDHI: So I'm going to make the base.

So this is the ghee... and then we are going to add dry spices.

So it's cinnamon, bay leaves, cumin seeds, black cardamom, and the cloves.

Cook it for a couple of seconds.

So you're going to feel the aroma of it.

We put five to six medium-sized onions.

So I'm going to cook it till it gets brown, translucent.

SETH: Yeah, a nicely perfumed kitchen right now.

NIDHI: Just for a little heat, we are going to add the green chilies.

SETH: These are Indian chilies?

NIDHI: These are Indian green chilies, yes.

SETH: So is this going to be a spicy curry?

NIDHI: It's going to be a moderate spice.

On the scale of one to 10, I would say around six.

SETH: Six works for me.

So taking the rum out of it, is keema itself, is that a typical Punjabi dish?

NIDHI: It is.

It is a street food.

We will add salt so that we take all the moisture from the onions.

So at this point, we'll add the ginger.

SETH: With every ingredient you add, my hunger just continues to grow and grow.

NIDHI: So now you see the color is changing.

It's about time we can put the garlic.

Anything you put in the wok, you have to cook it for like couple of minutes so that it adds more flavor.

SETH: Patience is an important ingredient too.

NIDHI: Patience is the main key.

It's about time we put the tomatoes in it, eight or nine tomatoes.

And again, the process starts.

Cook, cook, cook, cook, cook.

This is a turmeric powder.

We are raised that turmeric should be the main ingredient of anything.

And then at this point, this is a red chili powder, so approximately one and a half spoons of it.

SETH: And besides this one recipe chef, where did you learn all of these techniques?

NIDHI: So it's a mixed recipes of my side of family and my husband's side of family.

SETH: You add a little something to it.

NIDHI: And then I'm adding a little bit, little bit to it.

SETH: So the next generation will add their own little touch.

NIDHI: Yes.

Now as you see, the oil has separated from the curry sauce, and about time to put the chicken in it.

SETH: The beautiful rum chicken.

NIDHI: Okay.

We cook it for 10 minutes with the curry sauce so that everything gets mixed in.

SETH: And because you're using minced chicken, it's going to cook a little faster, right?

NIDHI: Absolutely.

While it's cooking, this is garam masala.

SETH: And do you blend your own garam masala in-house?

NIDHI: Every day, yes.

And then this is a dry fenugreek leaf.

SETH: All right.

More color, more aroma.

Love it.

NIDHI: Can you pass me the rum, please?

SETH: I would be more than happy to pass you the amazing Indian rum.

NIDHI: This is the most important ingredient in rum chicken.

I would say I can add everything, like the whole bottle of it.

SETH: Let's do it.

Why not?

Why stop there?

More rum flavor.

NIDHI: Keep going.

Finish the bottle, yeah.

SETH: Love it.

NIDHI: And then we simmer it for 15 minutes.

So after it's done simmering, I will add the green peas to it.

We are going to serve it with cumin pea rice.

And then we are going to add cilantro just to garnish it.

SETH: All right, Nidhi, Dinesh.

A nice warm curry is just what the doctor ordered today.

I can't wait to try it.

NIDHI: Are you tasting the rum?

SETH: Absolutely, and also those spices.

Really bold to that garam masala.

The rum, you don't quite get it at first, but it's almost like another layer... NIDHI: Another layer... SETH: On the back end of the bite.

It's just warm and comforting.

And do you recommend eating it with the rice?

Should I add some rice to my spoonful?

NIDHI: Absolutely.

SETH: And what did you add to the rice, Nidhi?

NIDHI: So it's like caramelized onions, cumin, green peas, fenugreek, and cilantro.

SETH: Perfect little complement to that Rum Keema.

The chickpeas, is that just an Indigo standard here?

DINESH: Yeah, totally because the chickpeas is such a favorite dish from the region that I come from, Punjab.

Everybody loves the chickpeas, whether they are meat eaters or vegetarians, or pescatarians.

It comes with all the dishes as a side.

SETH: They absolutely just melt in your mouth.

NIDHI: Yeah.

It takes forever to cook it.

The more you cook it, the more tender and juicy it is.

SETH: And speaking of rum, are we looking at a little more Old Monk in these cups right here?

DINESH: Right.

So to complement Nidhi's amazing rum chicken, we have an Old Monk cocktail here.

We call it the Indi-Mule.

It is some Old Monk rum, saffron vodka, cardamom syrup in it.

Top it with some ginger beer.

SETH: And voila.

Well, cheers to that.

DINESH: Sure, cheers.

SETH: Oh, that is delicious.

DINESH: I like it.

SETH: I like that there's Old Monk in everything right now.

When I look at DC, I can think of few neighborhoods that have changed more in the time you've been open than NoMa right here.

DINESH: Yeah.

When we started, there was nothing like it.

But all this development happening around, lots of new faces we got to see, definitely good for business.

SETH: You got a neighborhood with a lot of hungry mouths to feed.

DINESH: Yeah, yeah.

Obviously, we are presenting home-cooked meals and the most authentic meals back home where I come from are the places which have a very casual feel, the hole-in-the-wall kind of places.

If you're looking for some authentic food with an authentic dining experience, you know where to come.

SETH: I certainly do.

Thank you guys so much.

NIDHI: Thank you.

DINESH: Thank you so much.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: To find out more about great food in the Washington Metro area, visit weta.org/signaturedish.